Scottish Women's Hospital at the Macedonian Front during the First World War

Women of the Sixth (American) Unit of the Scottish Women's Hospital at Ostrovo (Wikipedia.org)

The Scottish Women’s Hospitals was founded by the surgeon and suffragette Dr. Elsie Maud Inglis (16 August 1864 – 26 November 1917), after the outbreak of World War I. Elsie Inglis and fellow suffragists, with the financial support of the National Union of Women’s Suffrage Societies, formed the ‘Scottish Women’s Hospitals Committee’.

Portrait of Dr. Elsie Maud Inglis (catalogue.wellcomelibrary.org)

At first, Inglis offered her service as surgeon to the British army, but she was told “go home and sit still woman”. In that time nurses and orderlies were permitted to serve in the British Red Cross but women doctors, were not considered competent enough. However, this did not deter Dr. Inglis who later formed the Scottish Women's Hospital (SWH), an all-woman medical organisation that would tend to the wounded of the allied nations, and give testament to the skills and professionalism of women medical practitioners.

The Scottish Women's Hospital was formed in 1914 in Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, and by November the first medical unit was already set with state of the art equipment. With the help of the French Red Cross, a mobile hospital unit was set in Royaumont, France. The complete staff of the unit consisted of women - doctors, nurses, orderlies, cooks and even the ambulance drivers. The unit in Royaumont, France proved to be a successful one and it served in France until the end of the war.
The Kingdom of Serbia since the beginning of the First World War, requested medical and other assistance, from the International Committee of the Red Cross in Geneva. Under the impression of the situation in Serbia, Dr. Inglis, offered the Serbian mission to London to send SWH units to the Serbian battlefield, and the Serbian government accepted this offer with gratitude.

The organized work of the Association of Scottish Women's Societies in the Kingdom of Serbia began, on Christmas 1915. Soon after medical missions and well-equipped hospitals arrived in Serbia, and in 1915 there were four large hospitals of the Association of Scottish Women's Associations in Kragujevac, Valjevo, Lazarevac, Mladenovac and two large English-Serbian hospitals in Kragujevac and Skopje.

Attacked by Austro-Hungary, the conditions in Serbia were terrible with many victims, wounded soldiers and prisoners of war, starved civilian population and major typhus epidemic in 1914/1915. Many  perished in the first years of the war, including several members of SWH.
When the great offensive of the Central Powers began in October 1915 (Bulgaria joined on the side of the Central Powers and attacked Serbia), all hospitals were evacuated to Krusevac, and later some retreated together with the Serbian army trough Albania.

Dr. Inglis and the majority of her staff refused to evacuate and stayed with their patients in occupied Serbia, becoming prisoners of war in November, 1915. They continued to treat their patients until their repatriation in February, 1916.

One part of SWH followed the Serbian army, which after its reorganization was sent on the newly formed Macedonian Front in 1916. Dr. Inglis, returned to England, formed another SWH unit and went to Russia, again to aid the Serbian army on Dobrudja front. After the Bolshevik revolution, she returned to Newcastle, England, where she died of cancer one day after her arrival.

Dr. Elsie Maud Inglis (left) (source of photo: Ратни албум 1914-1918, Поповић, Андра, Београд, 1926)

SWH on the Macedonian front (Salonika Front, Thessaloniki Front)

By the end of 1915, Serbia was attacked from all sides. The government, together with what remained of the army and part of the civilian population, retreated through Albania to the island of Corfu, Greece. On this island was the new headquarters of the government and began the reorganization of the army, which in 1916 was sent to the newly formed front near Salonica (Thessaloniki). Aldo Greece was still neutral, around Salonica there were Allied fortifications protecting the city and the port from the Central Powers. Hence, in some sources this front is called Salonika or Thessaloniki Front.

With the arrival of the reorganized Serbian army and the reinforcements from France, England, Italy and Russia, the front line was considerably expanded, reaching the Aegean Sea to the east and the Adriatic to the west, across the ethnic region of Macedonia – ie Macedonian Front. 
At the end of 1915 the Scottish Women's Hospital unit at Troyes, France was ordered to pack. Designed as a mobile unit, it was equipped with tents and vehicles, and attached to a division of the French army, it was dispatched to Salonica. The hospital (known as the Girton & Newnham Unit after the Cambridge University colleges which funded it) first was set up in a silkworm factory in the border town of Gevgelia, and after the rapid Bulgarian advance is was relocated to Salonica.

SWH unit on the Macedonian front (source of photo: Ратни албум 1914-1918, Поповић, Андра, Београд, 1926)

In Salonika the unit was joined by the American Unit (funded by American donors and named as to thank them), and both later were moved to Lake Ostrovo, where they supported the Serbian Army.
The SWH had hospitals and a transport unit on the Macedonian Front. Medical missions from other parts of the Commonwealth came from: Australia, New Zealand and Canada. A total of 60 women arrived, serving as nurses, ambulance drivers, doctors and surgeons. They were well equipped with vehicles with which they transported wounded soldiers from the Macedonian mountains (Transport Column). The Transport Column was an ambulance unit which allowed SWH to go and get the casualties quickly rather than waiting for casualties to be brought to them.

“Amongst the SWH staff was also Stella Maria Sarah Miles Franklin (Miles Franklin), a famous Australian writer”

Transport Column - Scottish Women`s Hospitals Motor Ambulance Column

Scottish Women’s Hospitals ambulance drivers on the Macedonian Front (source of photo: Australian War Memorial Collection)

Scottish Women`s Hospitals Motor Ambulance Column was specially organized motor vehicle unit, which played a remarkable role with the medical evacuation of wounded during the battles. The Transport Column, was established in the United Kingdom as a special unit of 18 members, which arrived in Thessaloniki by boat in the summer of 1916. It was led by Mary Josephine Beford, with role to operate near the front line, to collect the wounded and bring them to the SWH hospitals for treatment. The seriously wounded were evacuated with light ambulance cars 'Fords' which would come every morning to the prime-aid locations to take the seriously wounded. Thanks to them the evacuation was carried out and quickly and without delay.

“At first the Transport Column unit was commanded by Katherine Harley, who died during the bombardment of Bitola on March 7th, 1917.”

Katherine Harley with the Transport unit in Thessaloniki (source of photo: Ратни албум 1914-1918, Поповић, Андра, Београд, 1926)

The transport unit proved particularly successful during the breakthrough of the Macedonian Front in September 1918. The small Ford trucks proved to be very useful in the inaccessible Macedonian mountains and, unlike the other Serbian hospitals, the Scottish women's hospital was able to keep up with the fast advancing Serbian army, on a victorious road to Belgrade and Novi Sad.
After the end of the First World War, SWH was disbanded. Most of its members returned to their home countries, while some continued to deal with humanitarian activities in Serbia. Dr Kathleen McPhail in Belgrade established a children hospital and Evelina Haverfield with Vera Holme established an orphanage in Bajina Bašta. Others, left endowments in money and equipment, educated pupils, and provided scholarships for women doctors.

More info on Scottish Women's Hospital:

• https://www.scottishwomenshospitals.co.uk
• https://debbierobson.net/australians-working-with-the-scottish-womens-hospitals/#Bsurname

The story of Hotel Europe in Bitola during WW1

Excerpt from: The Story of The Salonika Army by G. Ward Price - OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENT WITH THE ALLIED FORCES IN THE BALKANS - NEW YORK - EDWARD J. CLODE – 1918

....There was one hotel in Monastir (Bitola) for whose plight in this respect I felt real sympathy. I went there to get quarters for my servant, and looking round for the name, saw only splashes of fresh whitewash in the places where you would have expected the sign of the hotel to be.

"What's the name of the hotel?" I asked the Greek proprietor.

He smiled uneasily. "Oh, you will find it quite easily again," he said; "there's the main street just there and you turn up by---"

Yes, I know; but what's its name?

"Well," said the owner, with hesitation, "it hasn't got a name yet."

However, next morning a new name went up. I found a flamboyant fresh gilt sign with the title "Hôtel Européen" being hoisted into place. I then learned the eventful history of the hotel's designation. When the Serbians had won Monastir from the Turks the proprietor had suitably commemorated the event and striven to attract official favour by changing its original name to that of "Hôtel de la Nouvelle Serbie."
Three years afterwards, in the same month, the Bulgars had taken the town from the Serbs, and the establishment quickly became "Hôtel de la Nouvelle Bulgarie."
Now, exactly twelve months later, the Serbs had recaptured Monastir, and the "Nouvelle Bulgarie" sign had to come down with a run to avoid certain trouble. So the proprietor told me that he had now given up trying to keep in touch with these constant changes of the town's nationality. The need of continually having his sign repainted was eating into the profits of his business, and delay in getting rid of the old one, or an error in tact in choosing the new, might well lead to harsh suspicions of the kind that are disposed of by firing-parties at dawn.
So he had decided in future to hedge.
Under the sign of "Hôtel Européen" he told me he felt that, for some time at any rate, he could have an easy mind. The armies of conflicting states could stream down the main street alongside, their officers could spend persecuted nights in his dubious beds., without their wrath being still further influenced by indignation at the national sentiments expressed by the name of the hotel. And in the flush of confidence which the unexceptionable yet dignified title of "Hôtel Européen" inspired, I noticed, when I came to pay the bill, that the proprietor had raised his prices for rooms two francs above any other hotel in the town.
...

Photo: Capture of Monastir. Changing the Bulgarian name of the Hotel de Nouvean, Monastir, November, 1916. MINISTRY OF INFORMATION FIRST WORLD WAR OFFICIAL COLLECTION

Order by the Mayor of Bitola, Dr Bojadjiev for taking protective measures during the bombardment – January 17, 1916

Наредба од градоначалникот на Битола Д-р Бојаџиев
за преземање на заштитни мерки при бомбардирање – 17.01.1916
(Извор: Државен Архив на РМ, одделение Битола)
Order by the Mayor of Bitola, Dr Bojadjiev for taking protective
measures during the bombardment – January 17, 1916
(Source – State Archive of RM, Department Bitola)

English translation (Превод на Англиски)

ORDER
Since the border is very close, it is possible that enemy planes occur again over the city and to avoid victims
I APPEAL
All citizens to take the following measures: In appearance of those planes, which carry a sign of "Red Cross" from below, citizens immediately should seek shelter in homes in a safe place, preferably in the basement.
And to get the chance to be saved those citizens who at that time were found on the road, citizens to leave open the entrance doors, so that these people can be hidden in the houses.
It is forbidden for the citizens to gather in groups in the streets, because they can become targets for the enemy.

Mayor Dr. A. Bojadziev
January 17, 1916
Bitola
Print – Pili Brothers - Bitola

Превод на Македонски (Macedonian translation)

НАРЕДБА
Со оглед на тоа да границата е многу блиску, можно е непријателски авиони да се јават повторно над градот и за да се избегнат жртвите
СЕ ПОВИКУВААТ
Сите граѓани да ги преземат следните мерки: При појавувањето на тие авиони, кои што носат знак на „Црвен крс т“ од долу, граѓаните веднаш да се приберат во куќите на сигурно место, препорачливо во визбите.
А за да се даде можност да се спасат и лицата кои во тој момент се затекнати на пат, граѓаните да ги остават отворени влезните врати, за да можат овие лица да се скријат во куќите.
Имсе забранува на граѓаните собирање во групи на улиците, зошто на тој начин стануваат цел на непријателот.

Градоначалник Д-р А. Бојаџиев
Јануари 17, 1916 г
Битола
Печатница – Браќа Пили Битола

Bitola 19.11-31.12.1916 - Notes by Mary L. Matthews

“Destruction by shells in Monastir,” Digital Exhibits of the Archives and Special Collections, accessed September 29, 2016, https://ascdc.mtholyoke.edu/items/show/3677

Mary L. Matthews (1864-1950) was missionary to the Protestant American School for Girls in Bitola (Monastir).  She arrived in Bitola in 1888 and her post lasted for 32 years, in which she took only three short furloughs to the U.S., in 1893-1896, 1904-1905, and 1913-1915.

Mary L. Matthews (1864-1950)

 She was a witness of the Ilinden upraise, the situation of the local population during Turkish Rule, the Young Turks' Revolution in 1908, Balkan Wars, First World War and she remained in Bitola until 1920.
During this time she kept a diary recording many events and also she personally took many valuable photos with her own camera.
In this post, short notes are presented, giving us valuable information about Bitola at the beginning of Second Balkan War.


Nov. 19, 1916 French and Serb Armies entered the city.
“ 20. Mon. German and Bulgarian Armies entrenched on mountains within sight of Monastir; (they shelled and bombed the city for the next 22  months).
One shell struck Mr. Clarke’s house; one fell on Peter Robeff’s house near the American school.  Aero battle all day.
“21.Tues. Cannon all day.  Three air-plane raids.
“22.Wed. A shell, about 5 P.M., near the Dragor River, killed or wounded 25 soldiers, and wounded a Major and 2 Italian generals.
“23.Thur. Shells on the city; one on Mr. Hronograph’s shelter near us, killed two boys who were in it and wounded Spasika Eftimova who had taken refuge there, a graduate of the American school.
“24.Fri.    Cannon.
“25.Sat.   Shells fell not far away.
“26.Sun. Shells from 3 to 4 P.M.  One fell on Deacon Uncha’s house, but the family was absent.
“  27.Mon. Terrible fighting with big cannon, 3.15-4 and later.  We saw it—the flash of the enemy guns and the shells on the city, a few seconds later.
“28.Tues. Battle in A.M. and early P.M. with cannon.
Civil government by Serbians;  Military, by the French.
Dec. 1.Wed.    German shells near us and on Yeni ward.
“ 6. Sun.     Many shells on or near the city.
“7. Mon.    Not many shells.
“9.Wed.   German shells on R.R; destroyed the station.  Severe battle.
“10.Thur. Shells on city; one woman killed; shell on Leonda’s house.
“11.Fri. Severe bombardment.  A shell broke into the Annex of the American School, destroyed beds in a dormitory.  School not in session after Nov. 28.  21 persons in the compound, but no one was injured.
 “12.Sat.   Bombardment in early A.M. and continued with intervals of quiet.
“13.Sun.  Bombardment, 3.30-5.30 P.M.
“14.Mon. Some cannon firing.
“15.Tues.  Fighting.
“16.Wed.  Terrible shelling.
“17.Thur. French Protestant service in our chapel; 20 soldiers present.  Very earnest service.  The soldiers want a Christmas tree.  M.L.M. was there and some of our people.
“18.Fri. Governor Jovanovitch gave M.L.M. an order for a bag of the flour the
“19. Americans went without, for all in the School Compound to share. Some were refugees, whose homes were dangerous.  It was difficult to reach the flour depot on (sic) “wheat market”, as streets were strictly guarded by French police.  Finally two Serb officers saw the order and took Miss M. to get the flour.  Terrible fighting in P.M. and evening, on the north hills.  French fired much; German shells on city; no harm to us.  At 10 P.M. 8 French soldiers got into the Orphanage Compound. At 1 A.M., those who had probably come over the wall opened the street gate which was locked inside; they let in other soldiers.  They knocked on Orphanage door, but Mrs. Mita did not open it.  Soldiers also went to some neighbors’ houses.  The French Chaplain, Pastor Gonin, and Dr. Muller entered a complaint for Miss M. to the French Authorities.  Fierce battle in evening on the western front.
“20. Last night, the men at the School Compound.  Dea. Uncha and Daniel, Mr. Eftem and Mr. Nicola took turns in going to the Orphanage to see if all was right.  Hard fighting all night.
“21. Battle on the hills in evening.
“23. At 3.30 P.M. a terrible bombardment by Germans, and shells fell not far away, and on the Volkani house.  Kosta Sarabakaloff’s little Nadeshda was killed.  Also, five other children near the Roumanian Church.  Mrs. Santa and Baba Santa were on the street and saw them.  All our people came home safely.
“24. Not many German shells, but French fired many; in an hour, Mrs. Mircheff counted about fifty.  In evening machine guns were fired at Magarevo.
“25. Christmas Day!  Picked a bunch of violets in the yard .  Roses are budded.  German shells on city in A.M., damaged many houses, but no casualties so far as we know.  Shells kept some of us away from the French service at 1 P.M. soldiers had set up a tree in our church and decorated it very prettily, at 2.30.  After the tree exercises at 5 o’clock,  Miss M., Baba Santa and Magda served tea.  Soldiers brought tea, sugar, biscuits; Miss M. furnished bread and raspberry jam.  Pastor Conin, Dr. Paul Muller and 24 soldiers were presents and all had a good time.
 “26. A lively rifle battle tonight.
“27.Wed.  French fired; Germans answered; about 1.30 and 8 P.M.  Considerable damage to people and property.
“28. Thur. Roar of cannon almost continuous.  German shells fell frequently, especially from 1 to 2.30 P.M.
“29. Fri.  Cannon thundered all day.  German shells fell about 10.30 A.M. and often in P.M.  One fell in yard of Mr. Geo. Rombi, op. our Annex, and broke the stone at his well; broke a pane in our Science Room; a bit blew thru window and fell near my desk upstairs.
“30. Sat. Cannon firing most of day.  City seems dead.  Few on streets.  No trade.
Damaged houses everywhere.
“ 31. Sun.  German shells on city, about noon.   One in our garden at 3 P.M. broke panes of the School.  No one was hurt.  Marvellous!  God is very good to us.  The orphans had sat in yard until 5 min. before shell fell.

Full diaries and letters of Miss Mary L. Matthews at Mount Holyoke College, where she was in the class of 1885.   https://ascdc.mtholyoke.edu/exhibits/show/marymatthews

References
1. Peggy Hanson Website - grand niece of Mary L. Matthews

2. Mary L. Matthews Papers, 1863-1950 - Mount Holyoke College Archives and Special Collections

Kajmakcalan Battle – 12 - 30 September 1916

Kajmakcalan Battle was fought between Bulgarian and Serbian armies, on the peak Kajmakcalan (Nidze Mountain) at the Macedonian Front during the First World War.
Kajmakcalan Battle was fought between 12 and 30 September 1916, and is considered an extension of the Battle of Gornichevo (Monastir Offensive / Bitola Offensive).

A strategic objective of the Entente armies at the beginning of operations was to conquer Kajmakcalan (Кајмакчалан), which dominates the entire region with its height and massiveness.
The armies of the Central Powers defended the mountains with two lines of trenches and wire obstacles. After fierce allied artillery bombardment on the night of September 17, 1916 they managed to break through the defense and conquer the first line of trenches.

The Peak Kajmakcalan - 360 photo sphere

Between 26 and 30 September summit Kajmakcalan been took over several times, until the Serbian army finally conquered it and kept it on 30 September. Human casualties were enormous on both sides, primarily due to man to man fight.
Despite the allied capture of the peak Kajmakcalan, Bulgarian-German forces managed to keep the side positions. Yet the capture of Kajmakcalan, had created favorable conditions for the Allied armies in further operations on Bitola battleground.

The Peak Kajmakcalan - 360 photo sphere

First Bulgarian Army units were forced to retreat on the hills near Crna River (Black River, Црна Река) and Serbian units fortified their positions on Kaimakcalan.

Bulgarian positions on Crna Reka

Bulgarian - German positions near Bitola were threatened. Spilled positions of the Bulgarian defense of Bitola were set by the bend of the river Crna (Black) and village Polog with the peak Chuka, which was turned into stronghold.

Panorama of region near villages Skochivir (center), Polog, the peaks Chuka and Crna River

After fierce bombing, the Allies were able to conquer the Polog and the peaks Chuka.
On November 16, 1916 Serbian, French and Russian attacks continued, and the retreat of Bulgarian and German armies continued.

The Allies won the villages Kenali (Kremenica) and Bukri and elevation 1212.
The French armies, with some Italian and Russian units, made strong pressure on the Bulgarian and German armies on November 19, 1916, which were forced to leave Bitola and withdraw in the heights surrounding the town (Pelister mountain and the near village Snegovo (northwest of Bitola).
The decision to abandon the city of Bitola (Monastir then) without any serious fighting was a practical decision of the German command, since the city itself was very difficult to defend. However this was a great shock to their ally, the Bulgarian Army and a Great victory for the Allied armies.
The commander of the First Bulgarian Army General Bojadziev, was immediately replaced.
Since Bitola was in the hands of the French, Italian and Russian troops on November 19,  First Regiment of the Serbian army crossed the Black River and entered the city from the road near village Novaci.

Kajmakcalan - World War 1 Battlefield on the Macedonian Front

Kajmakcalan is peak on Nidze mountain (2.521 m) located on the southern border of the Republic of Macedonia. It is the fifth highest peak in Macedonia and the third highest peak in Greece.

From the peak Kajmakcalan can be seen the lakes Vegoritida and Petron in Greece and the whole Mariovo region in Republic of Macedonia. Near Kajmakcalan are located the villages Skocivir in Macedonia and the ski center Voras in Greece.

According to one legend, the name Kajmakcalan originates from the thief "Kajmak" (the best), who climbed at the peak with his fellows, carrying the stolen gold from the raids. Kajmak dug out a hole and hid the gold, after which the leader of group killed Kajmak and said that in this way he will be eternal keeper of the buried treasure. (Kajmakcalan - literally translation: Kajmak+calam = the best in stealing). There are also other legends and stories for the name Kajmakcalan.

Battle of Kajmakcalan

The peak Kajmakcalan during the First World War was one of the key positions on the Macedonian Front. The Battle for Kajmakcalan will be remembered in history for the large number of victims on both sides, ie the Bulgarian and Serbian armies which were stationed in this part of the front, which both also included a large number of forcibly recruited Macedonians.
The peak Kajmakcalan was significant strategic position for both sides. The Bulgarians called it “Boris city” (after prince Boris) because they thought it was impregnable, whereas the Serbs called it “The Gate of freedom”.
Kaimakcalan battle was fought between 12 and 30 September 1916, when the first Serbian army managed to take the top St. Elijah, ousting the Bulgarians towards Mariovo, where they set up a new defensive line. Between 26 and 30 September summit Kajmakcalan been took over several times, until the Serbian army finally conquered it and kept it on 30 September. Human casualties were enormous on both sides, primarily due to man to man fight.

 

With the conquest of Kajmakcalan, the Allied troops were able to continue with further operations, which on November 19, 1916 resulted with the conquest of Bitola.

Don't miss: Kajmakčalan by 4×4: A Guide to Visiting Macedonia’s 2,521 m WWI Battlefield

The Kajmakcalan Chapel 

According to some sources, immediately after the Kajmakcalan Battle, given the large number of casualties on both sides, the soldiers started to build some kind of memorial on the peak. The chapel, with the nearby ossuary which houses the bones of many unknown soldiers, the Bell tower and the facilities were finished in 1928, marking the 10th anniversary of the end of First World War. On that occasion also was put into service the road leading from Bitola to Kaimakcalan.

Rudolphe Archibald Reiss

Rudolphe Archibald Reiss (8 July 1875 – 8 August 1929) was a German-Swiss criminology-pioneer, forensic scientist, professor, writer and correspondent for newspapers in several countries, reporting the events directly from the front.

Rudolphe Archibald Reiss 

At the request of the Serbian government, he arrives in Serbia in 1914 to investigate the crimes against civilians, made by the armies of Austria-Hungary, Germany and Bulgaria. He remained in Serbia until the end of his life.
Last time he visited Kajmakcalan on September 15 1928, marking the 10th anniversary of the Dobro Pole Battle.
R. A. Reiss died on August 8, 1929 in his villa in Belgrade called “Dobro Pole” and he was buried at the Topcider cemetery. At his request his heart was taken away in an urn on the peak Kajmakčalan, where it rested along with other soldiers that died here. The heart today is missing but the urn can still be seen into the chapel.

How to get to Kajmakcalan - Hire 4x4 Jeep >>> 

IN A BOMBARDED TOWN MONASTIR (Bitola) - December 12, 1916.

I am in Bitolj - Monastir, which the Allies have retaken from the Bulgaro - Germans on November 19th.

It is an open town, in no way fortified, and all military positions lie well outside its radius. Yet, since they have lost this town, the Bulgaro - Germans have not ceased to bombard it with guns and from aeroplanes. It is true that they have aimed specially at the outskirts and entrances of the town, where they might assume the presence of encampments or artillery positions.
A few days ago, how- ever, they changed their tactics. They have taken to sending their shrapnel full into the town, and since yesterday they have bombarded the centre of the town with large 210 shells. All the same, there is a paragraph in the Hague Convention of 1907, signed by the Central Empires, which formally forbids the bombardment of open towns.
But this Hague Convention is a scrap of paper which has been torn up by them like every other similar treaty.
I was roused this morning in my private house in the heart of Monastir, and far from every military establishment, by an appalling noise. A large enemy shell had wrecked a house quite close to mine. This first shell was followed by a dozen others which fell all round my house, causing a perfect hail of stones and shards of metal to descend upon our roof and walls. After this, the shells fell further off and finally, after a bombardment of about an hour, there came comparative silence, broken only from time to time by the " dry " sound of shrapnel exploding in the streets and public squares.
The inhabitants had " gone to earth " in their cellars, or rather, in what they call cellars, i.e. ordinary basements, not vaulted, but merely provided with a ceiling of boards.
A large 210 shell, such as those employed by the Bulgaro-Germans in bombarding Bitolj, penetrates them like a pat of butter after having cut through the whole of that flimsy construction which goes by the name of a stone house in the East. But in the meantime these " cellars " give at least a semblance of safety to this terrified population of old men, women, and children, and that is worth much in itself.

Many of the inhabitants of Monastir have taken shelter in the churches, which they believe to be safe from enemy projectiles, and day and night these places of worship are crowded with people who fancy they can escape death by making themselves as small as possible. 

I am profiting by the first lull to go out and make note of the damage. Only soldiers inured to " marmites " are walking calmly about the streets. Every now and again we meet a stretcher borne by two men. Upon it lies the body of some woman or child, all covered with blood and followed by a small knot of disconsolate relations.

These are the victims of Bulgaro-German disregard of the conventions and laws of war, and they are being taken to the Greek hospital. 

Here is a handsome building pierced from roof to cellar by a shell and with every window broken. I go in, and in the cellar, I find a great pool of blood. A mother had taken refuge here with her three children. She had an infant at her breast, and her two bigger babies had timidly hidden in her skirts. She was comforting them, telling them that they were safe in the cellar, when a great 210 shell came and wiped out four innocent lives.

I am now in front of the French hospital. I find them removing in haste. The shell-bursts had disturbed the surgeons in the middle of their work in the operating theatre. They are going to take up their abode in the cellars of the Greek hospital proper cellars, these, with vaulted ceilings.
The entrance to the last-named hospital is packed with people, and some of them are weeping distractedly.

A tall youth, a college student, timidly asks one of the male nurses who happens to be passing : 
" Those two young girls, are they very seriously injured ? "
Greatly embarrassed, the kindly nurse-Tommy replies :
" I'm afraid they won't live."
But his voice betrays the fact that they have already passed away.
" They were my sisters," says the college student sadly, and he goes away, sobbing. 

The bombardment begins again.
The few people who had ventured out into the street precipitately return to their " cellars." As for me, I resume my occupation of " keeping tally at the targets " from my window, which overlooks a large part of the town.
Again our house seems to attract the projectiles.
Houses are being hit all round us.
One shell falls within ten yards of me, and I take the opportunity to photograph the burst.
It is now noon ;
I must go out to lunch near by, at the Serbian officers' mess.
I go down the deserted street, where I meet nobody but a small boy who, in the midst of shell- bursts, offers Serbian papers to non-existent passers-by.
" Pravda,"
" Velika Srbija ! "
l cries the urchin, who braves the shells for the sake of bringing home a few coppers to his mother, who has fallen ill from the privations she has undergone.
The second phase of the bombardment has ceased.
A pope, followed by a man carrying a white coffin, has come to give a hasty burial to the old woman who has been killed next door to our house. He, too, is daring death in the pursuit of his calling, for a shrapnel shell, bursting just above him, sends down a bullet which pierces the empty casket intended for the dead woman.
Thus, all day and all night, the enemies of the Serbs continued their work of destruction upon an open town which used to be fairly wealthy, but is to-day in a miserable plight owing to the Bulgarian occupation and the bombardment.
The results of the day were : one Italian soldier, killed ; one Serbian soldier, injured ; some twenty women and children killed.
Neutral and all, one cannot help rinding all this abominable.
War is not made to exterminate harmless people, but to fight armies. The neutral States ought to abandon their reticence and protest against these massacres, because the judgment of history will be strict, and that not only upon those who have committed the crimes, but also upon those who allowed them to be committed without protesting.

Excerpt from the book:
THE KINGDOM OF SERBIA: INFRINGEMENTS OF THE RULES AND LAWS OF WAR COMMITTED by the AUSTRO-BULGARO-GERMANS: LETTERS OF A CRIMINOLOGIST ON THE SERBIAN
MACEDONIAN FRONT By Rudolphe Archibald Reiss
Published 1919